The annual flower festival takes place 15-18 April.
Touch down
The main scheduled carrier to Funchal is easyJet 0905 821 0905; easyjet.com, which has flights from Gatwick, Stansted and Bristol. From here, Rua Santa Maria leads to the art deco market hall, Mercado dos Lavradores 8, on Rua Brigadeiro Oudinot, best on a Friday or Saturday morning when the displays of subtropical fruit, giant octopus and evil-looking espada scabbard fish are at their most impressive. Head west along Rua Fernão Ornelas and cross Funchals central river to reach the attractive Cathedral quarter, much of which is pedestrianised, with ornate balconies overlooking cobbled lanes. Tours take place on Saturdays at 11am or 10.30am and 3.30pm from Monday to Friday; the price of €5 includes a tasting. Its neighbour, the Quinta das Cruzes 16 on Calçada Pico 00 351 291 740670; 10am-12.30pm and 2-5.30pm daily except Monday, is an imposing 15th-century mansion with an impressive display of silverware from chalices to babies rattles.
An aperitif
Sip a poncha rum punch or pre-prandial glass of Coral beer at Café do Teatro 17 on Avenida Arriaga, which has pavement tables and a courtyard.
Dine with the locals
A stylishly distressed interior with contemporary art on exposed-stone walls is the backdrop to Armazém do Sal 18 at Rua da Alfandega 135 00 351 291 241 285; armazemdosal.com which serves delicious tuna carpaccio and superb beef. Its decoration is an amalgam of azulejo tiling, frescos, gilded altars and barley-twist columns.
