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Click here for the 48 Hours in..Funchal map
Travel esssentials
Why go now?
One month agoMadeiracapital was pounded by catastrophic floods and landslideswhich killed 42 people across the islandMuch of the damage has now been cleared upWith its grand seafront promenadeblack-and-white mosaic pavementsattractive historic buildings and old-fashioned shops and cafésFunchal is back in businessThe annual flower festival takes place 15-18 April.
Touch down
The main scheduled carrier to Funchal is easyJet 0905 821 0905easyjet.comwhich has flights from GatwickStansted and BristolA taxi to the city centre takes around 25 minutes and costs €26-€30 more at weekends and 10pm-7am.
Get your bearings
Madeira is 550 miles south-west of Lisbonbut retains its Portuguese roots as well as strong connections with BritainMost places of interest are close to the stony Atlantic shorewhere three rivers that carve through the centre meet the ocean.
The seafront promenadethe Avenida do Maris recovering well from its recent batteringits palm-shaded cafés and bolo do caco flatbread stalls are as lively as everSet back from the promenade is the old townZona Velhaa jumble of terracotta-roofed cottages that was also hitThis quiet guesthouse has basic but tidy doubles from €50including a simple breakfast.
Madeira has the best selection of five-star hotels of all the Atlantic IslandsThe grande dame is ReidPalace 4 at Estrada Monumental 139 00 351 291 717171reidspalace.comdoubles from €234including breakfast.
Nearby a modern alternative with equally stunning ocean views is the Pestana Carlton Madeira 5 on Largo António Nobre 00 351 291 239500pestana.com where doubles cost from €175including breakfast.
Funchalhippest new addition is The Vine 6 at Rua dos Aranhas 27A 00 351 291 009000hotel thevine.comwith a rooftop pool and a vinotherapy spafrom €220 including breakfast.
Day one
Take a hike
Start at the Story Centre 7 00 351 291 000770storycentre.com10am to 6pm daily€9.60a lively museum of Madeiran history and cultureFrom hereRua Santa Maria leads to the art deco market hallMercado dos Lavradores 8on Rua Brigadeiro Oudinotbest on a Friday or Saturday morning when the displays of subtropical fruitgiant octopus and evil-looking espada scabbard fish are at their most impressiveHead west along Rua Fernão Ornelas and cross Funchalcentral river to reach the attractive Cathedral quartermuch of which is pedestrianisedwith ornate balconies overlooking cobbled lanesTours take place on Saturdays at 11am or 10.30am and 3.30pm from Monday to Fridaythe price of €5 includes a tastingA bottle of the popular five-year-old vintage costs €11A traditional accompaniment is bolo de melchewy cake made with molassesOne of the oldest makers is Fabrica St Antonio 11 at Travessa do Forno 27 00 351 291 220 255.
For hand-embroidered linen one of several Madeiran traditions started by British expatriates head for one of the stores in the Bordal chain 00 351 291 222965bordal.ptone branch can be found in the new Dolce Vita centre 12 on Rua Dr Brito Câmara.
Lunch on the run
At the stylish Cafdo Museu on Praça do Municipio 9a main course costs under €7More substantiallyGavião Novo 13 on Rua Santa Maria 00 351 291 229238 serves Madeiran favourites such as espada with bananaand espetada beef kebabs with laurel and garlicfor €11 or less.
Cultural afternoon
In the 15th and 16th centuriesMadeira prospered by supplying sugar to Flemish traderssome of whom offered priceless religious paintings as part-paymentMany of these can be seen in the Museu de Arte Sacra adjacent to the Praça do Municipio 9 at Rua do Bispo 21 00 351 291 228900The Casa-Museu Frederico de Freitas 14 at Calçada de Santa Clara 7 00 351 291 220578open 10am to 5.30pm Tuesday-Sunday is one of the classiest small museums in EuropeIt occupies a mansion where a family lived until 1988and has been preserved in immaculate order since then.
Move on to the Convento de Santa Clara 15also on Calçada Santa Clara 00 351 291 211000open 10am to noon and 3pm to 5pm daily except Sundaya working convent with a chapel lined with beautiful azulejo tilingIts neighbourthe Quinta das Cruzes 16 on Calçada Pico 00 351 291 74067010am-12.30pm and 2-5.30pm daily except Mondayis an imposing 15th-century mansion with an impressive display of silverware from chalices to babiesrattles.
An aperitif
Sip a poncha rum punch or pre-prandial glass of Coral beer at Cafdo Teatro 17 on Avenida Arriagawhich has pavement tables and a courtyard.
Dine with the locals
A stylishly distressed interior with contemporary art on exposed-stone walls is the backdrop to Armazém do Sal 18 at Rua da Alfandega 135 00 351 291 241 285armazemdosal.com which serves delicious tuna carpaccio and superb beefChicminimalist Riso 19 at Rua Santa Maria 274 00 351 291 280360specialises in risottosTo splash outbook a table at Il Gallo dOrothe gourmet restaurant at The Cliff Bay 20 on Estrada Monumental 00 351 291 708750portobay.comIts decoration is an amalgam of azulejo tilingfrescosgilded altars and barley-twist columnsThe early 19th-century neo-classical English Church 21 on Rua do Quebra Costas was designed by the British Consul to look secularin deference to Catholic Portuguese lawReturn on a carro de cestoa wickerwork sledgesteered downhill by a pair of white-flannelled drivers €25 for two people.
A walk in the park
Back in townsaunter under the oleanders and date palms in the Jardim de São Francisco 24filled with majestic trees from Africa and South Americaor relax to the sound of the fountains in Santa Caterina park 25.
The icing on the cake
Afternoon tea on the terrace at ReidPalace Hotel 4 English stylebut with the addition of miniature portions of bolo de mel is a civilised affair thatopen to non-residents from 3pm to 5.30pm €28.
